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Straight, Wavy, Curly, or Kinky? A Guide through the Types of Hair Chart

written by Star May 17, 2019
Weave Wig

Hair is either a blessing or a curse — chances are we don’t have to tell you which one of these two main hair categories you belong to. Some people simply wake up like they just walked out of a hair salon, while others spend hours in front of the mirror to make themselves look acceptable. Yes, we agree — it’s not fair.

However, the good thing is that you can make your hair cooperate and look good even without spending a fortune. Perhaps not as easily as some fortunate people can, but it’s entirely possible.

If you haven’t tamed your hair by now, you probably aren’t aware of your hair type. Perhaps you don’t even know there are categories and subcategories. On the other hand, perhaps you already determined your hair type but inaccurately.

Whatever the case is, we’ve put together an elaborate guide to help you untangle yourself out of this hairy mess.

Table of Contents

  • Types of Hair Chart
    • Hair Type 1: Straight
    • Hair Type 2: Wavy
    • Hair Type 3: Curly
    • Hair Type 4: Kinky

Types of Hair Chart

As you can see in the chart below, there are four main hair types, each of them containing three subtypes.

Type 1: Straight Type 2: Wavy Type 3: Curly Type 4: Kinky
1a — Fully Flat 2a — Beach Waves 3a — The S-Shape 4a — Coily Form
1b — Fuller Body 2b — Frizzy 3b — Spirals 4b — Cylinders
1c — Slight Bends 2c — Loose Spirals 3c — Tight Curls 4c — Zig-Zag

A fun fact — Andre Walker is responsible for this hair chart. If you haven’t heard of him, you must have heard of Oprah Winfrey and her work. Well, Mr. Walker is Oprah’s much-appreciated hair stylist.

Although it may not seem like that at first glance, you’ll find that the chart is pretty straightforward once we explain it one type at a time.

Hair Type 1: Straight

If your hair is straight, you’re a cause of envy worldwide. Other than being silky and smooth, straight hair is also the strongest type.

To explain — the strength of straight hair comes from sebum. Sebum is an oil that our body naturally produces. A strand of hair that stands straight is evenly covered with sebum, from the root to the end.

However, people with straight hair know there are two downsides to this genetic heritage. Straight hair is the most resilient hair type, but it’s also the most prone to grease. Secondly, curling straight hair is almost impossible. Even if you succeed to change the shape, curls won’t hold for long regardless of the hairstyling products.

1a — Fully Flat

Straight from the root all the way down to the ends, the 1a type practically doesn’t have any volume. You’ll be able to recognize the 1a type because it looks like it’s ironed flat even it’s just air-dried. 1a isn’t a widely-spread gene — it’s a really rare hair type.

1b — Fuller Body

You’ll be able to spot two differences between 1a and 1b. Unlike 1a, the 1b type has slightly, almost noticeably, curved ends. Secondly, the 1b type has a fuller body — this kind of hair looks like it’s blow-dried flat, not ironed.

1c — Slight Bends

Finally, the last straight subtype has an occasional bend here and there. Although it may not be able to hold curls, the 1c type can be styled into waves.

Hair Type 2: Wavy

Somewhere between dry and oily, the second column in our types of hair chart is dedicated to waves. The second hair type is best-known as beach hair. In a mermaid sort of fashion, locks take the shape of a stretched out S.

2a — Beach Waves

Frizz-free and loose, the 2a type can look quite attractive if you don’t saturate it with heavy products. In addition, you’ll get the best results if you air-dry your hair. Also, the lack of root volume may be problematic — use naturally based-products to increase it.

2b — Frizzy

Both frizz and the lack of root volume are a problem with the 2b type. Therefore, turn to products designed to solve these issues— the wave definition will come on its own.

2c — Loose Spirals

Finally, the 2c hair type may have that lovely stretched out S shape, but it’s extremely frizzy. In this case, a mousse for curl definition and a quality leave-in conditioner will do the trick.

Hair Type 3: Curly

The S shape gets tighter in this category of our types of hair chart — there are both loose and defined curls. If you’re the third type, you don’t need a lot of hair care products to shape your curls. However, sebum is concentrated on roots mostly. Consequently, you’re dealing with dryness and hair prone to damage.

3a — The S-Shape

Luxurious curls in a charmingly defined S shape are recognizable as the 3a type. Although you don’t need much time to style your curls, you do need to keep it away from brushes and curious fingers. If you don’t, you’ll have a lot of frizz on your hands.

3b — Spirals

More spiraled than curled, the 3b hair type comes with a lot of frizz issues. Therefore, if you don’t use styling products, your hair will look messy. A styling cream, a suitable conditioner, and a moisturizer all need to be in your hair care collection.

3c — Tight Curls

Dense and defined, the 3c type curls have a rich texture. You don’t need a styling cream to shape your curls — they are naturally lovely. However, frizz and dryness may appear if you don’t use cream-based products.

Hair Type 4: Kinky

To distinguish the final category on our types of hair chart, you need to know one trick. The kinky hair type, otherwise known as Afro-textured hair, doesn’t change its shape significantly when it’s wet.

Extremely dry and prone to cracking, the kinky hair type needs a special treatment. Unlike the first type that gets an even spread of sebum, the kinky oil supply doesn’t go further than the roots.

4a — Coily Form

If you belong to the 4a type, your curls will spring naturally. However, you should use a quality cream-based product that’s both for styling and moisturizing. With this ace up your sleeve, you’ll be able to protect your hair from damage and frizz.

4b — Cylinders

Somewhere between the coil and the zig-zag shape, the 4b curls have a tight cylindrical shape. When compared to 4a, the 4b hair type has more definition. Curls go from the roots all the way to the end.

4c — Zig-Zag

The wildest hair type is definitely 4c. To illustrate — the zig-zag shape is clearly visible, and the strand texture varies. Considering that 4c is at the end of our list, which we started with the oiliest type, the zig-zag pattern is seriously fragile and dry.

To take care of the 4c type, you should use a generous amount of a leave-in moisturizing conditioner. In addition, you should regularly apply oils to your hair — both coconut and argan are a great choice.

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1 comment

Andrea Ingram May 26, 2019 - 7:21 am

Love your blog. Today, I’m trying to determine my hair type. Although categories are descriptive, I would have benefited from pictures. Please add pics next time.
Thanks for what you do. I’ve been on Amazon all night. Your advertisers should thank you too.

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About Me

About Me

Hey There!

My name is Star, welcome to AfricanAmericanHairstyles.org

Im a natural hair enthusiast sharing well researched advice, tips, and product reviews.

I finally understand how to care for my hair and I hope I can help you do the same with yours.

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